Caring for selvedge denim
Raw selvedge denim behaves differently from the washed denim most people are used to. Almost everything below is the material working as intended rather than a fault.
Indigo transfer
New raw denim will transfer indigo onto lighter surfaces: pale furniture, car seats, sneakers, bags, and your skin. This is called crocking. It is heaviest in the first few wears and reduces over time.
It is not a defect and it is not a sign of poor dyeing. It is what unwashed indigo does.
To reduce it, be careful around light upholstery early on and avoid pairing with pale leather until the denim has settled.
Washing
Wash sparingly. Denim does not need washing on the schedule other clothes do, and frequent washing works against the fades that make raw denim worth owning.
When you do wash:
- Turn the jeans inside out
- Cold water
- Mild detergent, no bleach, no fabric softener
- Hang to dry, away from direct heat and direct sun
Do not tumble dry. Heat is the fastest way to shrink and distort a pair.
Fades and creases
Whiskers at the hip, honeycombs behind the knee, and wear at the pocket edges develop from how you actually move. That is the point of the material. Denim that is worn consistently before its first wash develops sharper contrast.
Shrinkage
Raw denim can shrink slightly on first wash, mostly in length. Cold water and air drying keeps this to a minimum.
Storage
Hang or fold flat. Avoid long periods folded hard along one crease line, which can set a permanent mark.